Campeche and Counting…

Number of:
encuestas completed: 173
– SPF in the sunblock that doesn’t last as long as it promises: +55
tortas eaten in the past two weeks: 8
– glasses of suspicious-looking water: 5
– rides home in the bed of a truck: 2
– cockroaches successfully killed: 1
-memorable experiences: it depends on which one of us you ask!

Gran Acropolis, Edzna Ruins, Campeche

Gran Acropolis, Edzna Ruins, Campeche

And here we are, back in Mexico City and out of Escárcega, a place that Lonely Planet travel guide considers “a quick truck stop for bathroom breaks,” but what we found to be much more. The communities surrounding the area, whether they are 30 minutes or 2 hours and 30 minutes away, are each unique. We visited a total of 11 pueblos in Campeche: some were built on hillsides overlooking a lake, others bordered the main highway; some had a detached kitchen from the rest of the house, others had all rooms combined in one large bungalow. We have experienced rough roads at 10:30pm, motorcycle rides through thick jungles, murky lakes, miscommunications with indigenous peoples, and some of the skinniest stray dogs I’ve ever seen. But more than anything, we learned something knew each day.

Balancax, Campeche

Balancax, Campeche

 

 

 

 

 

 

    The small wonders that never cross our minds back home astound us for hours. And the little cultural differences that seem to separate us, only draw us together. Here are some of examples of things that kept us in awe:

1) The people of Campeche look marvelous in a 90˚F with 70% humidity climate. While we slugged from house to house, wiping our brows with damp washcloths and drinking a bottle of water an hour, the people in each community barley had a drop of sweat on their bodies. They women looked seamlessly natural and fresh in their summer skirts, even though they labor in the fields with a machete, or over a hot wood stove making tortillas. While families offered us everything from cold drinks, to mango slices, to coconut dulces, I think the secret of staying sweat-free while working in the sun will forever be a campechano secret.
*Click here for a sneak peek of our daily travels: Kiara, the Wild Survey Taker

2) ‘Twas a sad day this past Sunday, as Kiara and I sat in our favorite restaurant down the block, Mi Ranchito, and watched as the Mexican National Fútbol Team suffered a close defeat to The Netherlands. I watched as tears streamed down players’ faces on tv. People quickly paid their check and left, trying to hide the disappointment in their faces. Although I have only been in México for 3 weeks, the attachment which I formed to El Tri surprised me. The patriotism and near-obsession with fútbol swept me off my feet faster than any Brazilian soccer player could. When Rafa Marquez scored a goal, my heart skipped a beat. When Memo Ochoa missed a block, I felt disheartened. And when that last Netherlandian ball went flying into Mexico’s goal in the last few minutes of the game, I felt the pain of the Mexican nation. The dreams of the players, the face paint that had been saved for the play-offs, the cheers that would never be shouted, were all swallowed up into the net along with the last goal.

Fútbol Fever!

Fútbol Fever!

3) Most importantly, we had the chance to experience the beauty of Campeche. We witnessed the daily lives of those living on the outskirts of society: the hardship, the simplicity, and the generosity that was always shown. We talked to one man who explained that he was thankful for clean water and light in his community, which they had lacked for 40 years. We ate dinner at a government-funded boarding school for indigenous students ages 5-18, where we felt like local celebrities, even though the kids could not remember our names. We held numerous baby chicks, puppies, and kittens as they scrambled around clients’ backyards and kitchens during interviews. We heard the grievances of low employment opportunities, little access to primary and secondary education, and the scarcity of fresh water and financial resources. At the same time, we also listened to the many simple joys which we often take for granted. Many families were grateful for having just one light bulb in their house, just one. One of our survey questions asked what other products the users would be interested in, such as refrigerators, fans, stoves, blenders, or washers. It surprised me that many people said nothing; they were happy with just light.

El Centro Histórico de Campeche

El Centro Histórico de Campeche

Calle 59, Centro Historico, Campeche

Campeche “La novia del Mar”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The trip really put things into perspective for me. Society tells us we need the latest electronics, fashions, and toys. We demand so much from ourselves, and often forget that the simplest things can make us happy. The people we interviewed have very few material possessions, but I would consider them happy, if not happier, than the people I am surrounded by back home. Satisfied with the serenity of the jungle, the simple rituals of daily life, and the closeness of family, many would choose this lifestyle over the fast-paced, often over-worked lives which signify “success” back home. So what is success? Is it the amount of friends, fame, or fortune collected over a lifetime? Or is it simply the fact that the señora who sells ice-cold paletas just happened to pass in front of your porch during the hottest time of the day? It’s the little things that make the biggest difference.

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